Expressions of Hawaii and Returns to the Island

I'm writing from a popular beach spot in Maui, Baldwin, near the hip town of Pa'ia, on this my last day in Hawaii.

Sea Turtle and Rainbows at Baldwin Beach

I've been curious throughout this journey, and even before the journey, how it would feel to return to Victoria. Now nearly on the brink of that return, I'm still curious. It's been 7 weeks away from my community, my home, my work. But honestly 7 weeks still seems short. I've been on travel stints that have lasted happily longer then 2 years. But, this time is different. I actually have a home to return to. In the past I've easily moved out of houses and quit jobs to seek adventure, and this time, I have roots to go back to. People who are looking forward to seeing me, and me them. I have a garden to tend to and a kitchen stocked to create in. I have people to hug and a bed to sleep in. Rather then a fresh start, I have fresh perspective. I am healthy and sun kissed, well and full of fresh citrus, mangoes and avocados. I hold excitement for 2018 and for a continued life on Vancouver island and all that may continue to unfurl - like a banana leaf slowly uncurls to flutter preciously in the wind, until it  becomes frayed with time, turns brown and falls off, with another sweet tube just so ready to uncurl and continue the growth process.

This journey has been refreshing. Fulfilling, and enjoyable. It's not been transformational or shape shifting like some of my other travels most certainly have been...but it's been satisfying. Enough time away to make the preparations feel worth it, to make the 'miss' I feel for my people and places at home tender, but not painful. And I like that this journey happened at a normally dark and inward time of year. When the garden hasn't missed me and I haven't missed the best Canadian camping weather. It's happened at the time of year when I like to make intentions for the year ahead, reflect on the year that was, and foster satisfaction. It felt great to do that from warm places, from new places, from places that easily remind me what I like and don't like about my life. When I adventure, I step outside of my norm, and I'm aware of what I miss, and more importantly, what I've been missing. Travel is a catalyst for recognizing what would make my life better and where I need to grow. Thank the spirits I have the privilege of travel.

The wild Waipi'o Valley

Hawaii has been a super sweet dancey sing songy note to end this adventure on. I was met by fantastic travel buds on the Big Island. These friends (one from Victoria, one Maui, one Germany) were a likely bunch of adventurers who inspired the Hawaii leg, so I knew I was in for a treat. We camped our way all over the North Western side of the Big island, with my favourite being the wild and rugged Waipi'o Valley. Steep lush green cliffs rising on either side of a stunning flowing fresh river valley. A wild beach reminiscent of those of the west coast of Cascadia...appealing for the compelling power of the waves and rush of the sand underneath, but a place I'd be unlikely to go swimming for the power of the great 'Mama O'. We journeyed up to Mauna Kea, a sacred and now dormant volcano, that has mega telescopes littered all over the summit. For years this mountain has been a space of indigenous resistance to observatory/telescope development. The Hawaiian people want to preserve their sacred Mauna Kea for the special place that it is, both spiritually and ecologically. 

Our beauty campsite at Waipi'o Valley; My camp buddies Heidi and Iris

Me, Iris, Heidi, Jim, at some magic waterfalls and deep pools that I climbed up (and they kept going!)

The sacred Mauna Kea Summit, with fallen snowy calderas in view

Between beach stops and look out points, snorkelling and swimming, we stopped in at the Pu'ukohola Heiau (translates to temple on the hill of a whale). A Heiau, as I understand it, is a Hawaiian temple; some are spiritual sites, others war zones, and others yet were meeting places. All are considered sacred by Hawaiians. The Pu'ukohola Heiau was made of huge stones, all intricately stacked to create a sacred space for the highest caste people to come. It was completed  in 1791 by many strong people (moving red volcanic rock by hand along a chain of humans 14 miles long!) under the famous King Kamehameha. It is a luakini heiau, meaning that it is a sacraficial temple, and ultimately King Kamehameha's cousin was summoned and sacraficed for the official dedication of the temple. Though I'm definitely no history buff, it was neat to be there, and learn a bit about Hawaii's history. Heidi was great to be with, living on Hawaiian land for 20 years, she has done her research. She can pronounce Hawaiian words properly, knows a good deal of history about the islands and is tuned into the current cultural scene for indigenous Hawaiians. She is equally abundant with enthusiasm for sharing her knowledge, and it proved interesting to have a more in depth understanding of some of the places we were visiting. Oh, and she brought fruit. Yum, she brought delicious, nutritious, local Maui grown fruit for us to enjoy the whole week we were on the Big Island!

While I so loved our wild camping spots (the last one with some spectacular humpback whale sightings) I also totally appreciated some of the sweet little colourful unique down to earth towns (such as Honokaa and Hawi) we stopped in on our adventures. Void of big box or otherwise recognizable store names, there was charming independence found in the cafes, gift shops and grocery stories.

Whales weren't the only wildlife we saw! There were many (cute and quick) marmots! They'd bolt across the road, rushing from tall grass to tall grass, or peak their head out from around a rock on a trail. 

Look! A whale! 2 o'clock! 

We also had the opportunity to get on a boat. The quirky driver quickly noticed the playful spinner dolphins that surrounded our boat. After many a collective oooh and awwww observing their spiral jumps and dances, we carried on under the setting sun to go on a night snorkel adventure. Not only did we see plenty o' fish under the sea, but we also held onto a floaty board thing that had LED lights on the bottom. These lights attract plankton. These plankton are eaten by mega manta rays! Though the water was cold and I was struggling to maintain the floating, still, superman posture that's required so not to scare the 5-7 metre long manta rays, I did really enjoy their swoopy dance as they came in to scoop up the plankton that we had attracted. What an experience!

After the Big Island adventures I flew with my friends on a tiny 8 seat commuter plane to Maui. (Yes, carbon debt, I know. I'm going to offset my plane trip. Anyone know the merits of these folks?) My last week of adventuring was spent on Maui, in Jim and Heidi's wonderful world. They so generously welcomed me into their brightly lit high ceiling cottage, and there we ate yummy food, slept cozy at night and practiced yoga in the mornings. By day, we adventured to Secret Beach, Little Beach, Mckenna Beach, Baldwin Beach and we snorkeled at Ahihi-Kinau Natural Area Reserve, where park staff made the effort to talk to every visitor and stress the importance of not standing on corals, and not entering the water if you have toxic sunscreen on. Only sunscreen with zinc or titanium as the medically active ingredient were safe for reef ecology. Any oxy toxy, paraben faraben mumbo jumbo in your sunscreen, and you're polluting the water and contributing to the demise of the Hawaiian coral reefs. The one we snorkeled at was apparently the only thriving reef left on Maui... Not only did we beach hop, suntan and swim with the awe inspiring sonar sound of the whales and dolphins under the water, but we also hiked. To Heidi's local waterfall spot, a nearby forest reserve, and along the dry Lahina coast, looking over the turquoise blue waters of the ocean. Ohhhhh geez, and we paddle boarded! Um, I am now a huge fan. Who do I know in Victoria who owns one? Can I borrow it all the time for lake and ocean fun! Heidi and I giggled and laughed as we paddled (it kinda felt like we were walking on water) alongside sea turtles, and attempted to surf a top our boards. It was fun, and my muscles had enjoyed it as well. 

Oh I love these silly souls. Jim and Heidi and I at the beach, all upside down

Other outrageous fun had was dancing and singing and circling! West African dance, Ecstatic Dance, Dance Church (amazzzzing and with the popular DJ Human Experience, who I know well from hearing his tunes at my local ecstatic dance event, Dance Temple). Maui has quite the dance scene and I just loved dancing in a new place, with new faces. It was juicy and fun! I sang Kirtan at a concert/gathering and sang songs aloud with my friends. I also was welcomed by Heidi to share in the very special experience of the double circle. A meeting of different generations: equal numbers of elder woman, meet to share ceremony with an equal number of younger women. What a sweet opportunity to listen and be listened to, and be reminded of the experience and wisdom of elders, and the importance they have in communities! And what a sweet opportunity to get to share more intimate time with my friends Heidi and Jim. I've spent time on hikes and camping adventures with them here at home in Victoria, but to be with them so much over the course of two weeks was a real pleasure, to deepen into knowing them, witnessing them in relationship to one another, and to really feel so drawn to Heidi as an awesome amazing sister friend. I am so very excited to welcome her to Victoria when she relocates here.

And speaking of amazing welcomes. I was welcomed home warmly by my sweetie. When a vehicle wasn't borrow-able to pick me up from the airport, he met me at the bus stop with a homeade muffin in his pocket, and my bicycle strapped to his bicycle. He strapped on my luggage and I hopped on my bicycle dream, and off we went to catch up after a couple weeks apart. The welcome has been warm from other friends as well, and I look forward to more catch ups in the coming weeks. While the rain that is falling is cold, I feel warm back inside my cozy room, where I'm finishing writing this. I'm going to keep noticing, trying to be aware, of how it feels to call this place home, this city Victoria, on unceded Lekwungen Territory. To be satisfied with all that is, and strive to bring even more harmony and joy into my life here.