Hannah, Tricia and I arrived safely in Portland last night! After 5 days and 5 adventurous nights cycling southbound through Washington, we find ourselves in another state, and in some ways, another world.
We started our adventure last Saturday, as we cycled for the last time through Victoria, being sure to stop off at the Origins Bakery so I could grab a loaf of fresh GF bread before heading to the ferry over to Port Angeles. We were all stocked up and ready to camp that evening, and so, after perusing our first American farmers market, and managing to also bump into a celebration at a delightful wee 100-mile food shop, we took to the Washington bike path, and found ourselves at a beautiful state park on the water, where there are special hiker-biker camp sites that are uber cheap,and even have bicycle racks! Along with the state park we stayed at the next night, we were the only ones at the campground - fall is truly and fully upon us in Washington and Oregon. We cycled southbound, surrounding, but not on the I-5 through some wacky and weird small American towns, bumping into some really very curious, and interesting folks along the way. My personal favourite was the stop that we made at one of the hundreds of drive through espresso shacks that we passed - a curious driver asked where we were headed, and our conversation progressed into a rant about liberalism, election time and witchcraft. whew! Another favourite was a wonderful farmer who we bought some veggies from (after realizing that the "grocery store" in that town was nothing more of a gas station, we back tracked a mile to come back to her veggies!) brought us out some delicious homemade pesto and bread!
And then there was Olympia - a very neat city indeed - the capital of Washington, with a old city vibe, but starting to bust at the seam with new age funk that the new-ish college brings to this city. We had our first experience with warm showers there, an Internet site that hooks up cycle tourists with other cycling enthusiasts who have a floor, couch or space to offer up. After a thorough visit to the Olympia food co-op, we arrived at our host's place as he was preparing a delicious, nutritious meal for us all! We were fully stoked, after two really quite chilly nights of camping and cooking over the camp stove. Our hosts were amazing - conversation came easy with these enviro minded farmers/teachers/activist. And we were overjoying the morning when our oatmeal was replaced by homemade gluten free blueberry pancakes, and our host guided us out of the city and onto our path further south!
On our way again, we felt more and more chilly, even as we rode, but continued to give great thanks to mama earth for not raining down on us! We had plotted to stay at another state campground, only to arrive at it in the cold fading sunlight and realize that it was closed. We didn't feel we had enough daylight to get to the next town - so we guerrilla camped, filled up every water vessel we had at a neighbouring home, and set up camp under a picnic shelter in the park. We even managed to make a little fire, and as we huddled around it and ate our lentil-millet-brocoflower dinner, we shared stories with one another about what our families ate growing up, and what our traditions were in our different home worlds.
When we awoke the next morning, we found frost everywhere, and our toes and fingers were quite chilly - we ate our oats fast and cycled our buns off into the next little all-American town - Toledo. There was a moment on that ride that I will certainly remember. As I tried desperately to bring my toes alive, I looked over the sleepy agricultural field to the east, and I saw the sun - trying to bring us warmth, and the field absolutely frozen in time and silence. The frost looked like snow as I gazed at it through my breath as we cycled along. It truly was a beautiful scene, and made me forget my chilly toes in a hurry; I knew Toledo was only 6 miles away.
After some more wild small town Washington stops, and after one more wonderful warm shower stay in Longview, we arrived yesterday in Portland, went out to a yummy pub with our hosts here, and met a number of other die-hard cycle enthusiasts. My next move is yet to be written. The last few days were a test in my ability to keep my ayurveda vata body warm! I am still so eager to cycle the pacific coast, but since leaving Victoria just 5 days ago, the weather has seemed to get significantly colder, and my confidence to deal with the elements is becoming less strong. So, I'll adventure this weekend in Portland, and re-assess my plans.
I must offer gratitude in this blog post. For the ability to choose to have this adventure. For our warm shower hosts who made us food, who gave us beds (!) to sleep on, and who were generally so keen to share and learn with us. For my tent that kept me warm(ish) while camping. For my 14 Otesha team-mates who Hannah, Tricia and I continually remembered while we were doing our daily "bike touring tasks" and especially for Tricia and Hannah, for being such wonderful companions, on this very different portion of our cycling journey. I hope you are somewhere warm dear friend.
Love Kayla
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