Aurora Renews: More on Myanmar: From trekking to election time

Many people ask the question: is it Myanmar, or is it Burma?

Officially the country is known as Myanmar (err officially, the Republic of the Union of Myanmar). All of the locals I interacted with, also referred to it as this. Before 1989, when the name was officially changed, Myanmar was known as Burma. But this word was taken from the dominant ethnic population the Burmese, or Bamar people. And, as I quickly learned on my first of two mountain treks to remote villages, the name Burma, was not considered inclusive of the 135 distinct ethnic groups recognized in the country of 53 million people. Not everyone here is Burmese; they might be Shan or Palaung or Kachin, etc. So, collectively they are all the people of Myanmar.

After my adventures with big cities and temples, I ventured to the north eastern Shan state of Myanmar, where many of these aforementioned minority groups live in green hills, growing vegetables, rice and tea, herding their cattle and caring for their working water buffalo. Where Shan noodle soup is ubiquitous and smiles of white and red teeth abound.

I embarked on my first three day trek from the cool mountain town of Kalaw. Where we spend two days hiking through such a varied landscape. Mostly green hills, patched with different forms of vegetable growing on the first and second day, and on the third, descending 900 meters to Inle Lake, a large freshwater lake where fishermen paddle their canoes with one leg, and floating farms abound.

During my second hike, I was lucky to be walking along side a Palaung man, whom walked myself and two other solo travelers to his village, where they grow much of the countries tea supplies, 16 kilometers outside of Hsipaw, also in Myanmar's Shan state.

The varied villages and ethnic minority groups I had the chance to learn about and interact with on these two treks were varied - with different arts and crafts, different clothing and dress. They grew different foods (though I saw a lot of rice, peanut, corn, tea, cabbage and other mixed vegetable fields), lived in homes that were constructed out of slightly different materials. All were predominately Buddhist and some practiced Animism (spirit worship). All meals centered around rice and vegetables, and were cooked over open fires inside the house. Tea was central to every break, every meal, every time you had nothing else to do. Cows and water buffalo plodded by at all hours of the day, often guided or ridden by their caretakers.

Staying in these villages was refreshing. To see people living simply in this world, gave me hope. Sure, you'd see the odd person with a cell phone, and most houses had government given solar panels for their two light bulbs come nighttime, but neighbours were very close, chatting as they passed one another, and hearing through one thin wall to the house next door. They used one another as the bank (borrowing money, that they then promised once the tea harvest was complete for example). And the children could be seen freely rushing out of their small schools, for their walk home. With metal tiffon lunch container in hand, and woven bookbag to the side of their green longyi (i.e. wrap around skirt) and white top uniform, they egarly ditched their book bags to throw their home made wooden tops, or play a jump rope game with their friends on the dusty pathways. No cars flowed through their 'streets'. Just the odd motorbike, and lots of feet and hooves. No running water, just rainwater storage tanks, or piped spring water from mountains higher up.

Best of all, to the extent of my interactions with these people, they are very happy.
Not at all under developed or less developed. I was always comfortable, safe, clean and (deliciously) well fed. Though without electricity and running water, with super simple houses and no streets to speak of, they, to my eye, seemed more developed. They work very hard in their fields in the day, and they have family and community to do it all with, and that's more then so many people can say who live surrounded by hundreds of neighbours in 'communities' within cities in North America.

I hope for such a redefinition of 'development' in the west. I hope we further 'develop' our family and community connections, and that we progress towards the realization that consumption and consumerism is not necessary for happiness and comfort, and that it feels good to work hard sometimes.

On the trail from Kalaw to Inle Lake

The path down to the toilet, during my first nights stay in a small Shan village

86 year old woman weaving bags with a loom strapped to her body

The chef, cooking up a delicious storm in the kitchen

House in the village - with beans drying and cow cart parked

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In a separate topic I've felt inspired to write about, the people of Myanmar are on such an interesting road to democracy.

Though, they are far from what I consider democracy.

The people of Myanmar that I had the opportunity to meet and converse with are hopeful and patient people. Though I interacted briefly with many locals that exuded such qualities, the people I had the most interaction with were my two (smart) guides on the treks I went on, whom I conversed with for long periods of time at depth during our long walks and quiet, dark nights together. I get the sense that many of the people of Myanmar understand what a democratic government might mean for them, and what this country would look like if there was an end to the long years of military rule.

Myanmar was a one party state between about 1962 and 2011, led by military group called the junta. There has been numerous uprisings and protesting to this government, especially during the 1980s and 1990s when elections were won by the National League for Democracy (NLD) party, but the election results were ignored by the ruling military. These were also the years when the inspiring advocate for democracy, Aung San Suu Kyi was on house arrest for not so fair reasons.

Myanmar has an election coming up, in November, but people are discouraged about the possible outcome, because of continued corruption and forced changes in the constitution which mean that the NLD party leader (Aung San Suu Kyi) cannot win the election. The current constitutional changes that were put forth (not for debate) some years ago, mean that 25% of seats in the Myanmar parliament will always be filled by the military, and that no person who is married to a foreigner or has mixed race children can become president.

This are both important factors in this country electing a truly progressive government (because 25% of seats will still be held by the corrupt conservative military) and it also means that the Nobel peace prize winning Aung San Suu Kyi cannot be elected as president because she is a widow of an English man.

This is just a small bit of a foray into Myanmar politics...

Because of these reasons and so many others (e.g. all money from resource exploitation seems to stay in the deep pockets of military officials, bribing small villagers to vote for the military party if they offer a asphalt road or solar panels, etc.) fighting between military and rebel groups (achem, groups who simply desire justice) continues in many areas of Myanmar. This has forced some small villages to relocate to safer areas, and has kept much of the country to off limits to visitors like myself.

I write all this as Canada too prepares for election time. And it is an election I feel so so emotionally involved in... Having had a conservative government for 11 years now, I've seen environmental legislation get scrapped, arts funding get cut, election policies making it more difficult for students and lower income people to vote, security and censorship get increasingly, freakishly, big brother-esk, and important public organizations (e.g. Canada post and the CBC) being privatized or getting funding cut. I'm frustrated, and honestly, scared, for the future of Canada should an NDP or liberal government not get elected.

These Canadian political problems are so different then those in Myanmar, and so many other countries, I acknowledge that. I am more fortunate then so many.

But in truth, I question the democratic value of the government in Canada. Where, in the election of 2011, only 38% of Canadians who voted actually wanted this (stupid, whoops did I type that) conservative government. I feel like this government neglects everything public, the things that keep us alive, like common air, forest, water. They seem to have been successful in breeding a more fearful Canada as the conservatives spend more money on fighter jets and censorship. Their words are brainwashing us, and we aren't consciously aware of it.

Traveling abroad makes me love Canada more then ever. Even the fact that I can write this blog criticizing the government is a privilege so many don't have. But I love it for reasons that I am scared will not be reasons anymore should a conservative government be re-elected...

Please please please, for me, for your daughter, your son, for your neighbour, for a healthy and strong Canada do not vote conservative. And if you're stuck on whom then to vote for, so that votes aren't split between NDP and Liberal in your riding, check out the website www.Leadnow.ca where you might be able to see which candidate is more likely to win in your riding, and therefore where to meaningfully place your vote.