Friday, May 22, 2015

Latin to Khmer, iguanas to elephants, ecology to genocide

Wat Pho complex, Bangkok
reclining Buddha at Wat Pho, Bangkok
Buddhas at Wat Pho

Boat ride on the Mekong near Kratie, Cambodia

Fruity tooty

Elephant Valley Project, the sanctuary where I'll be doing some work this summer

Here I am in Asia; Battambang, Cambodia to be more exact. In the throngs of the pre-rainy season heat, I'm a bit hot. Here, there is the kind of heat reminiscent of the cloud of smokey heat as it wafts of a summer campfire in Canada. While in front of the campfire in Canada you an seek the reprieve of distance, of a late night walk in the summer time air, here in Cambodia, there is no escape-only acceptance as the liquid salt drips down the spine of my back, and I positively reminding myself that I am not cold, and won't be for the next 4 months at the least. I've come back to Asia for a different reason then that of my journey across the pacific in 2009. Then, a hopeful and fresh Olumni from my first Otesha bicycle trip, I met up with my dear sister in Vietnam for our backpacking trip through Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, and southern Thailand. This time I'm here to relearn this area of the world as I consecutively facilitate an experience for groups from North America. Walker and I, my colleague in this adventure, have done a complete dry run of the 40 day Operation Groundswell program in just 10 short days. In this period of time, we've remembered the fatty taste of Khmer curry, the familiarity of the pungent street smells of fish, rotting garbage and fragrant incense burning at everyone's Buddhist spirit houses. We've been reminded of the absolute cheerfulness of the smiles of many Cambodians faces as they shout hello, ask where you are going, and offer their Moto or colorful tuk-tuk for your sweaty bum. Oh Cambodia. 

At moments I feel as though I am I a dream, a state of in betweenness, where I am confounded  by these peoples friendliness and openness, after such a dramatic and recent genocide, and considering the enduring tumultuous and corrupt government that still exists today. It's such a complex and confusing reality here, with opposites so close to the tip of your nose, the expression in your face is taken to a new level. After finding myself engulfed by the novel "First they Killed my Father" a book written in the voice of a child who endured the horrors a child should never under the Khmer Rouge of the late 1970's - I am feeling those same feelings I felt here in Cambodia 6 years ago. These emotions of frustration that such horror exists in this world; my gratitude and guilt for having the privilege to grow up where I did....

Walker and I have already met  some of the very inspiring Cambodians that we will work alongside in the coming weeks. Folks who are endeavoring to improve food security, increase community resiliency, improve the habitat of the Mekong River for turtles, Bunong people who have suffered from government land grabs, to the extreme detriment of their communities, and in turn the exploitation of their elephants and forests for lack of other choice. These people know how to laugh. At the same time as meeting with these people, Walker and I navigate the weird world of border crossings, bus systems, and food practicalities, budgeting, and so much more, to prepare ourselves for having 11 new travelers with us here in just a couple days time. 

It's quite the mission. 

It's also so strange to think about how easy it truly is to move around this world. Just 10 days ago I was in Ottawa, 20 days before that I was on a boat in the Galápagos Islands with my parents. 

In the Galápagos with my fabulous parents. These two, can adapt with out complaints (maybe I have a bit of this positive quality? ;). They truly rolled with the plans that I made for us in Ecuador. From the super rustic cold brick cabana in a rural Ecuadorian Andes village, to the simplest of (fake) sailboats that literally lost its propeller at week's end, rocking and rolling; to literally sleeping with many a winged creature, my parents were the easiest of going. They trusted my basic Spanish, my ability to navigate us through this Latin world so different from their reality in Canada. And the amazement of the Galápagos wildlife and nature was truly a reward. As were the plantain and cassava treats for my moms celiac belly. We snorkeled with rays, with white tipped sharks, marine iguanas. I did a water dance with the playful sea lions, feeling like a mermaid... I called out to the super chill sea turtles as the frantic brightly coloured fish and sea urchins darted around me. I squealed through my snorkel as the super speedy penguin darted by, only to be distracted and not notice the sea lion swimming STRAIGHT at me. In their playfulness, at last moment they circle, spiral out of my vision, disappearing into the periphery of my goggle mask reduced vision... The majesty of this place, this collection of volcanic islands 1000 kilometers off the coast of mainland Ecuador is special. Truly. 

It's so special I'm not convinced I should have been there at all. In ecosystems so special, I have a difficult time understanding how the human animal has any deserving place...our impact is confusing there-apparently tourist money has brought a great deal of ability to researchers and preservation efforts of local governments. But the potential for poor processing of garbage and human waste, and the unavoidable reliance on the mainland for all food and fuel (because of the volcanic nature of the islands, not many food crops are suited to growing there, though a unique collection of flora has adapted to life on (relatively) fresh lava flows.) Maybe instead, we should all just watch a BBC documentary on the Galápagos?!

But there is something truly amazing about the sheer thrill and excitement that humans have when they get to encounter other life so closely, in the wild. Whether it's boating along beside a huge pod of bottle nose Dolphins or popping up from your view of the reef to be face to face with marine iguanas sunbathing, the bright blue feet of the famous Galápagos boobies, along with the sally light foot crab, all within one square foot...there is something so so special about the realization that this earth is teeming with life. It's life different then a humans life, and with an element of mystery - but its a recognition of this sort of shared experience. This acknowledgement that we are not the only life on this earth, that it is home to so so so many other lives. And perhaps this simple realization that can be catalyzed by close physical experience with the wild life that we share mama earth with, raises a humans consciousness to the interdependence and integral connection of all life on this earth. I hope that this is true for some, and that in turn maybe actions in their lives shift...

As I get ready to welcome 11 new friends to Bangkok in a couple short days, into a world I still am confused by on a daily basis, I'm excited to see the possibility of similar consciousness raising to be catalyzed in their hearts, heads, and ultimately, lives back home. 

Love, so much love bursting forth to you, world, spirit, lovers, friends, family, elephants and turtles...
hiking near Papallacta

marine iguana hand

flightless cormorant, blue footed booby and penguin!

sally light food crab

marine iguana

our boat for 6 days


sea lion and lava lizard

Quito skyline by night

Dad, Mom and I at the top of the telleferiquo in Quito